Friday, 23 January 2015

//WOOL ALDER DRESS


Hellooo!

This dress has been languishing unworn at the back of my wardrobe since I finished it around 6 weeks ago. Why? Because I’m currently in the midst of 30+ degree days and this dress is made of WOOL. These two variables aren’t particularly well-matched. However, I do like the dress so I’m sure it won’t be long until it gets more use.

When I first spotted this pattern online I was beyond excited. It was completely my style and I’d been half-pie looking for a decent shirtdress pattern for a while. (Don’t you just love when you find a pattern that’s right up your alley?) I set about urgently finding some fabric for it and even spent my lunch break cutting out and cello-taping the pattern together such was my keenness! 


I initially used a cheap navy wool-mix suiting-type fabric but I slowly came to realise this wasn’t the best choice for the gathered version as it was too stiff. I’d also just inherited an unfamiliar sewing machine which was uncooperative in the topstitching and left puckered seams. I couldn’t bring myself to finish it knowing I’d never wear something with such ugly seams.

A month or so after this failure I picked up this wool gauze (I think?) fabric at the Fabric Store’s bi-annual sale and immediately designated it as an Alder. In fairness, there’s probably more appropriate garments for this wool gauze but I had Alders on the mind! Plus, I loved the weight and pattern of the fabric.

Sewing

In terms of sewing, it was fairly straightforward but a bit more time-consuming than most of my sewing projects are. I decided early on that the gauze was on the wrong side of opaque and needed lining (cotton gauze? From the Fabric Store also), so basically sewed a whole other body of the dress (sans collar and pocket) and attached it under the collar stand, yoke, and button stands. I was also a bit tardy because I took my time and basted the pockets, collar etc. first to make sure they were perfect before topstitching, but I think this paid off.


The fabric was lovely to work with, and although it’s fairly loosely woven it didn’t cause me any grief. I was terrified about the buttonholes going into this because I’ve never had much luck with them in the past – mainly due to the machines I was using – and this required a whole TEN. However with the help of an automatic buttonhole foot and about 27 practice buttonholes it came out fine!

The pattern instructions were really easy to follow and the diagrams helpful! I drafted a smaller lining for the skirt with less fullness, but didn’t change anything else about the pattern. I cut a size 4 and although I’m pretty happy with the relaxed fit I may even go down to a size 2 (or make the bodice a tighter fit) next time because there is a bit of wriggle-room to do so!



Yay vs Nay

Yay


  • The biggest yay has to be the buttons. I picked up a bag of exactly the number and type I needed for a mere 30 cents in an op shop. It wasn’t until afterwards I looked closely at the bag and noticed it was meant to be $3.00. Oops.
  • In general I really love the design. Jen’s done a great job making it flattering, and I think it would suit most body shapes between the two versions. I love the tailored collar, yoke etc contrasting with the gathered skirt and scooped hem. (I’ve always been a sucker for a good gathered skirt).

Nay


  • I guess all I have to say in the nay column is that the fabric I chose isn’t exactly year-round suitable (at least not in my climate). So while the pattern is relatively summery, the fabric is suited to winter. 


Ahh well, it’ll been cold before too long. In the meantime - is it time for a summery linen version?

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